DIY vs. Certified RV Inspection
When to Hire a Pro (and My 35-Year “Expert DIY” Checklist)
By Chuck Price • Boondock or Bust • Updated 2025
⬇ Download DIY Inspection Checklist (PDF)
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Why RV Inspection Prices Vary So Much
RV inspections aren’t cookie-cutter. A 20-foot travel trailer might take a few hours; a 43-foot diesel pusher can swallow a full day. Price is driven by:
- Rig type & complexity: More slides, appliances, & systems = more hours.
- Location & travel: Mobile inspectors often charge mileage/time.
- Inspection scope: “Basic” (life-safety & major systems) vs “premium” (roof-to-chassis, deeper testing).
- Reporting time: Many certified inspectors spend ~8 hours on-site and up to ~10 hours on a photo-rich report.
What You’re Actually Paying For
A solid inspection is a structured evaluation—not just “flip some switches.” Value scales with scope, time, tools, and credentials.
| Inspection Type | What You Get | Typical Range (2025) | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| DIY (Beginner) | Quick visual scan—roof condition, tires, visible leaks | Free | Screening multiple RVs quickly in a day |
| DIY (Experienced) | Structured checklist across roof, seals, electrical, LP lines, moisture hot-spots | Free | Owners with mechanical aptitude and ladder confidence |
| Basic Professional | Life-safety and major systems tested; summary report | ≈ $700–$900 | Late-model travel trailers or simple Class C |
| Premium Certified | Deep-dive: ~8 hrs on-site + robust photo report (fluid analysis optional) | ≈ $1,200–$1,800+ | Used Class A/B/C, complex rigs, or first-time buyers |
Tools matter: moisture meters, borescopes, propane pressure gauges, IR thermometers, and more. You’re also paying for trained eyes that spot soft floors, early delamination, and electrical heat signatures. For a feel of real-world upkeep (and why inspections catch money pits early), read
The Real Costs of Class B RV Maintenance.
DIY vs Certified Inspection: When Experience Saves Money (and When It Doesn’t)
Our DIY process catches a lot—because we’ve done it for decades. If you’re handy and comfortable on a ladder, a structured DIY can spot 70–80% of issues and teach you your rig.
My 25-Year “Expert DIY” Checklist (What I Look For)
- The Roof (The Deal-Breaker): Hands-and-knees check of every inch of sealant around vents, AC, cap seams; watch for chalking and soft spots.
- Water Intrusion (The Killer): Open cabinets, look for stains, smell for mildew; push on floors at slide corners and along walls.
- Systems (The Gut Check): Run everything—fridge on gas and electric, water heater, furnace, AC. Does it just turn on, or does it perform to spec?
- Electrical & LP: GFCIs trip/recover; test detectors (LP, CO, smoke); look for scorched wires at the converter.
- Tires & Chassis: Date codes (not just tread), sidewall cracks, uneven wear; suspension bushings and visible frame rust.
Where the Pro Finds What I Might Miss
- Moisture mapping: My hands feel soft spots; a pro’s meter proves it and shows how far damage spreads.
- Electrical forensics: I can see if an outlet works; a circuit analyzer flags reverse polarity or bad grounds.
- Thermal imaging: No, they don’t have X-ray eyes—but a thermal camera can reveal hot converters, overloaded circuits, or hidden leaks.
- LP manometer tests: A proper pressure/leak-down test beats “smell check” guesses every time.
Pre-Trip Checklist
and our free planning toolkit,
The Complete RV & Vanlife Planner.
If you’re earlier in the journey (or eyeing used rigs), these buyer-savvy reads help you frame risk and reality:
Why a Premium Inspection Takes 18 Hours (and Why the Report Is the Most Valuable Part)
The 8-Hour On-Site Inspection: Beyond “Kicking the Tires”
Premium inspections follow rigorous standards—think hundreds of checkpoints. It’s not a switch-flip tour: it’s structured testing with tools. Moisture meters (the #1 RV killer is water), thermal imagers (to spot hot electrical runs), borescopes (inside hard-to-see cavities), and manometers (to pressure-test propane) all take time—and produce evidence.
De-Bunking the “10-Hour Report”: It’s Not a Write-Up—It’s Your Battle Plan
“Ten hours to write a report?” The report isn’t typing—it’s data compilation. Expect:
- Dozens to hundreds of photos: Roof, seals, undercarriage, appliance serials, issue close-ups.
- Color-coded prioritization: Life-safety (Red), Major repairs (Orange), Maintenance (Yellow).
- Performance notes & verification: Not just that something turned on—how it performed.
And when you do buy, that same report becomes your maintenance roadmap for the next few years—far more usable than a generic owner’s manual.
An Inspection Isn’t a Pass/Fail Test—It’s a Reality Check
One skeptic said, “If someone spends 8 hours looking at a camper, you’re never going to buy one. They all have problems.” He’s right about one thing: they all have problems. Even brand-new, six-figure motorhomes roll off the lot with issues.
The point of an inspection isn’t to earn a “Pass.” The point is to get a list—and make a smart decision:
- Ask the seller to fix the red/orange items, or
- Negotiate the repair amount off the price, or
- Walk away—saving yourself from a budget-breaking lemon.
How to Decide What’s a Fair Price for Your RV
A fair inspection price depends on your situation:
- RV value & age: Older/costlier rigs increase inspection ROI.
- Scope: Roof-to-chassis? Fluid analysis on motorized units?
- Credentials: Training and liability coverage add real value.
- Location: Urban markets and travel distance affect fees.
- Risk tolerance: If uncertainty ruins your sleep, buy peace of mind.
Repair-risk ratio = Estimated hidden repair ($) ÷ Inspection fee ($)
If > 4 → Strong value. If < 2 → Consider DIY first, then reassess.
Want to sanity-check broader budget planning? Start here:
How Much Does Boondocking Really Cost?
FAQ: RV Inspection Pricing & Value
- Do certified inspectors guarantee their work?
- No. You’re purchasing a detailed report and expert judgment—not a warranty. Quality pros carry liability insurance and will clarify disputed items.
- Why do RV inspections sometimes cost more than home inspections?
- An RV is a house + vehicle + plumbing + electrical system, all in one. More systems to test = more time.
- Should I add a fluid analysis?
- For any used motorhome or tow vehicle, yes—it’s one of the best ways to detect internal engine or transmission wear before a breakdown.
- How often should I re-inspect my RV?
- Every two years or after prolonged storage—so you catch slow-burn issues before they get expensive.
New to upkeep? Start with our hub:
RV Maintenance & Safety.
Bottom Line
A fair inspection price isn’t a number—it’s a ratio between knowledge and risk. If you lack the experience to judge a roof patch from a cosmetic scratch, hire it out. If you’ve got the know-how (and tolerance for risk), DIY can work—and you’ll learn your rig.
Just don’t let a few hundred bucks decide the fate of a $50,000 dream rig.
Next steps:
- Download our planning toolkit:
The Complete RV & Vanlife Planner - Rehearse your process with our
Pre-Trip Checklist
Article URL: https://boondockorbust.com/rv-inspection-cost-guide/